Well, this page has been a long time coming. We went to Ireland in March of 2008... and it's what... the middle of September now? (Yes, it is)


It started with a simple question... "Where do you want to go for our honeymoon?". The answer was easy - because during my travels while I was in the military, one of the places I got to go was Ireland. Of all the places I'd gone to, Ireland was the one that triggered the most jealous anger out of my then-girlfriend who could not go with me. Plus, I'm not a fan of tropical places that are more popular for honeymoons (too hot) (also I'm fat and pale).

I received no objection at the notion from my then-fiancee (in fact, you could call her reaction enthusiastic enthusiasm). We got married in March of 07, and neither of us had enough vacation time to go to Ireland that year (me just being out of the military and all), so we elected to go the following year, around the same time of our anniversary. We found a travel agent and asked him about different options/kinds of trips we could take over there. There were several choices... A) Rent a car and go to pre-assigned destinations, essentially taking a tour around the country on your own and getting discounts where you go (NO! They drive on the left side of the road over there. I don't think I can handle that... people tried to tell me that it really isn't hard to get used to but I don't believe them). B) Don't rent a car and take public transportation around the country, walking most of the time (this sounded okay - but also sounded stressful. I didn't want to spend 30 - 45 minutes of the vacation waiting on a bus that we might have caught had we gotten there 5 minutes earlier). C) Take a coach tour.

And a coach tour it was! Not only was it cheaper (didn't have to pay for a car, gas, or public transportation) but it had stops that we would not have stopped at had we gone on our own. Also a lot of the individual tours were at no extra charge... blah blah yeah this is boring I know. Long story short it sounded like the best option by far.

We paid for it, got our passports, and flew straight to Philadelphia. And then we flew straight to Dublin. We arrived between influxes of people in our "group" and were sitting around at the airport for a good long while. During this time I got my first shock on how worthless the US Dollar is when we bought two coffees for $8. Well, I guess this doesn't sound so bad if you're comparing it to Starbuck's... Well, after an hour of waiting/sitting on the floor near the CIE tour booth they finally felt sorry enough for us that the bus driver and tour guide, Jim Lynch would take us to our hotel as the only people on the bus. We sat up front (of course) and got a pretty good view of Dublin (except for the part where we were in a tunnel for 10 minutes or so... that wasn't very exciting). I remember him trying to pull out of the parking spot and his cell phone rang... and he sat there blocking parking lot traffic for a good 30 seconds or so as he slowly backed out of the parking space with one hand. Another thing I remember is him saying was that the new Dublin logo is the crane - and when we exited on the other side of the tunnel I saw why. Construction was happening everywhere. We talked about a lot of things, but since I waited so long to write this I don't remember most of it.

Our bus driver had quite a time finding a place to park the bus for us to unload our bags... There was no hotel parking at all, and the street was one lane with no shoulder... He promptly pulled up onto the sidewalk and we got out and checked into the hotel. We noticed a bunch of people sitting in the lobby... older folk, obviously American. We got keys to our room instantly, and a few of them looked angry as they were obviously waiting for their rooms to be ready, and we got ours so handily. It was that day that we were to walk the streets of Dublin with a tour guide, and visit a few historic places, including the Guinness storehouse. We were dead tired from jet lag, so we took a nap on our somewhat uncomfortable bed (two twins pushed together with Queen sheets on top). After our nap, we went to the lobby to gather up and get on the bus to tour places around Dublin... and come to find out, these "older folk" half sleeping in the lobby earlier were part of our tour group. Not only that, but more "older folk" who got their rooms before we arrived joined us. Come to find out, the coach tour is the preferred tour of senior citizens. Other than one woman, in her mid 30's traveling with her parents, you could have added my age to my wife's and we would still be the youngest person there. All this does is attribute to the wisdom of my wife and I (because old people are wise).

The entrance to the Guinness storehouse, facing out. You can see the "NESS" on the right as proof.
Taken from inside Dublin castle, looking out of a window. A park of sorts, obviously. Made me hungry for spaghetti.
The tail end of morning traffic trying to get into Dublin. It was a few miles long, but nothing in comparison to I-95N into DC.

As you may be able to tell, there is a fog in the upper left corner of the picture of the lawn-park-thing. On bright pictures, this fog will plague my photography skills until much later, when I notice it, and wipe my lens clean. Also don't mind the black edges around the aforementioned picture... those are there because I rotated it slightly to level it out and forgot to crop it properly (these pictures were selected and modified a very long time ago and I'm not in the mood to go through them again). (UPDATE: I went through them again. Fixed it.)

The Guinness factory tour wasn't so much a tour as it was a "Go in here, follow the signs". There was a lot to see and a lot to do, but unfortunately there wasn't much time to do it. Lots of history, lots of exhibits... people sitting behind counters with displays on entire floors with no one walking around, while the Gravity Room (the place where you get your free glass of Guinness) was packed with kids just out of college for the day. In hindsight, I would have not gone to the Gravity Room, as the Guinness there tasted just like any old Guinness in the states, and throughout our trip the Guinness I had in pubs across the country tasted better. The place was pretty neat all in all, and what I remember most are the Dyson hand dryers (picture found on internet) in the restrooms that you just won't see in the US (though you may have seen the commercial for them). I also remember the smell of the place being quite intoxicating. I do certainly love Guinness.

As far as the historical part of the tour went, I don't remember too much of it. The guide talked about how Ireland invested in education and ya-da ya-da... but the thing that caught my attention were when she mentioned tax breaks (because I had read the same thing in the Fair Tax book) for corporations that relocate to Ireland. Yeah you can invest in education, but the US still has a bigger pool to pick from of people just as educated, if not more. When you offer tax breaks, that's what really invites businesses over... even though the working wage over there is 3x what it is here. I know this isn't supposed to be a political post, but at times I think it needs to be mentioned because everyone (we met, interacted with) in Ireland seems to be much more politically aware than the average American... and I think this is worth noting.

After doing the tour(s) around Dublin we were to go back to the hotel and find something to eat (one of the few meals not provided to us by the tour). We ended up taking a cab to a pub somewhere downtown. The waiter was very slow, and didn't speak English. The couple we were eating with (in their early 60's), the guy sitting across from me got fish and chips, and asked for lots of lemon. The guy returned with a single quarter of lemon on a plate. There was a little hostility... but eventually the guy got the two lemons that he wanted. I had Guinness beef stew that was absolutely delicious. I don't remember what the wife got, but it wasn't as good as what I got. The bill totaled 45 Euros for the two of us, which translated into real English at the time meant $70. After dinner we took a cab back to the hotel, and it was that evening that there was a C.I.E. sponsored "get-together" with a drink (just one, though the brochure did not specify how many... but Jim Lynch definitely did). The back of the pub attached to the hotel was sectioned off for us, and it was very crowded. Everyone introduced themselves, and everyone's eyes were on us. We were the fresh meat of the group, and when they found out we were on our honeymoon it was difficult to escape smiling eyes for the rest of the trip.

We went to bed... I wish I could remember the name of the hotel, but it wasn't all that impressive. The lobby was nice, but the room pretty much sucked. The view was of a gravel and tar roof top, with another building right on the other side of it. There was a lot of construction going on throughout the day (which made it hard to nap earlier)... Luckily we were only there for one night.

Throughout Dublin we got a lot of talk from Jim regarding the skyrocketing house prices and various political speak about how the EU was providing a lot of services to Ireland, while simultaneously sucking away its soul. Below is a quick video of Jim talking about government owned housing (I was trying to save space on the memory card so I didn't record for very long).

Getting around Dublin was pretty interesting. Glad I wasn't driving. How this guy managed to maneuver this bus around the way he did I'll never really understand. Some sort of leprechaun magic. The place is chock full of narrow roads with narrow lanes; inches of margin of error where buildings are lined up right against the curb. Roundabouts with four lanes are pretty common. That, and cars are not scared to get close to the bus. There were times where a car would disappear completely out of view and no matter how hard I pressed my greasy face to the bus window, I couldn't see it... swearing that it went under the bus. Traffic was fairly bad. Like DC they have a commute problem where people working in the city can't afford the housing there... Though it's not nearly to the scale DC is.


VIDEO: 3.6 MB - 15s

Jim talks about corporation housing.

A view from the 'back yard' of the Dolmen Hotel
A tree and a flower in the front yard of the Dolmen Hotel
Another picture taken from behind the Dolmen Hotel. Bascially, looking 90 degrees to the right from the bridge picture. (large)


VIDEO: 16.7 MB - 1:34

Our bus driver (Jim) talks about how home boundaries work, and how important they are (exciting).

Our very first stop was the Dolmen Hotel. We didn't stay there... we just took a break there. Inside was a pleasing atmosphere common with really old, well maintained establishments. Good coffee. Good soup. Good bread. After eating, I walked outside and looked around... and here's where you see the pictures that I took above.

Still jetlagged it was hard to stay awake during the ride to the next stop, Jerpoint Abbey. I took a lot of pictures of the hours' worth of countryside, but unfortunately (even with the gray skies) there was a lot of reflection on the bus window so you won't see any here (they aren't worth seeing).

I tried to get as much of the scene in the photo as possible by rotating the camera... This the courtyard of Jerpoint Abbey.
An opening... a window of sorts on one side of the abbey. Amazing stonework. (large)
A stairway leading to St. Canice Church.

Jerpoint Abbey was interesting. The thing was basically a 830 year old structure (that's older than I am!) that has fallen apart over the years. While the tour guide was walking the group around talking about history and other boring things, I was exploring, admiring the architecture and the horror movie perfect atmosphere, complete with squawking ravens.


VIDEO: 11.2 MB - 0:42

Here is a video of our bus being parallel parked at Kilkenny. There was about two feet at the
rear of the bus, and three feet at the front when it was done. Serious skill. Applause at the end.

This picture is good (like all the other ones aren't - ha) because it clearly shows trash on the ground, mere feet away from the trash can.
After walking up the stairway to St. Canice Church, you are met with a path to St. Canice Church.
Kilkenny Castle. Plus a river. And grey skies.

As with any time I have gone to a foreign country, my favorite thing to do was not sightsee or take tours, but rather just walk around the town and observe every day life for the people that live there, and take what I can from it. Walking around Kilkenny was our first opportunity to do this thoroughly. It is exactly what you would expect a good sized Irish town to be. Cobblestone alleys. Traffic jams in narrow roads. Lots of small shops crammed together in centuries old buildings. What I did not expect was graffiti and litter. Many times humorous graffiti, but graffiti nonetheless.

We ate lunch at some tavern, where we were seated underground. Since the dollar -vs- euro was at its least beneficial rate in history at the time we went, we pretty much settled for ~$12 soup and bread for every lunch where we fended for ourselves (as opposed to $18 sandwich and soup, or $20+ real meals). And that's what we had there. Always an adventure, because every place seemed to bake their own bread, and it was different every time. Soup was different from what we are used to as well... It's completely liquid. No chunks of vegetables floating around or anything... it's all puréed (I guess that makes it tastier when you dip your bread into it). That's not to say it wasn't good, in fact every kind of soup we got throughout the trip was delicious.

Once done in Kilkenny we departed for the farm house, basically a bed and breakfast, where we would be staying for two nights. The group got split up three ways, and my wife and I were put with the younger group of people, mostly from Pennsylvania (they all moved into the same neighborhood at about the same time, and were all NY Giants fans, and that's how they got to know each other and travel together).